Review by: Amy Hanson & Madison Rosenbaum
The Bradley offers a cozy yet chic environment that lends itself to conversation at a comfortable volume thanks to the acoustic paneling on the ceiling. The seating is good for both larger and smaller groups. They specialize in small plates and artisan cocktails with a well curated selection of mostly Washington wines. The Bradley is also casual enough to drop by on a Tuesday night with a coworker for a drink on the way home. Few spots in the Tri-Cities are able to offer a flexible experience, which should not be overlooked.
Before the Bradley, the Tri-Cities was definitely lacking as far as fine dining experiences go. The addition of this restaurant provides such an experience without the pressure of stuffy waiters or the intimidating French jargon that would render the menu unnavigable for most diners. You may still find a stray word that you may not know, but don’t be afraid to google or even ask your waiter. The wait staff explained each dish as they presented it, which is indicative of a level of service that is hard to find at most restaurants. Also notable is the excellent selection of gluten free items and their nod to the dedicated vegetarian.
Cocktails:
With artisan cocktails the point is to slowly enjoy your libation and all of it’s complex flavors. Unfortunately that means no AMFs or trash cans or a bucket of Coronas will be found here. But what you will find will delight your senses.
Posada Punch – A strong and woody Posadas tequila with a warm flavor of cinnamon pear sweetness. Crushed ice kept this stiff drink sippable without diluting it.
Small Plates: Arancini
These deep fried risotto balls have a crunchy outside with a perfectly cooked creamy rice inside mixed with the bright flavors of the sofrito (onion, garlic, coriander), and served with a pomodoro (tomato and roasted red pepper) sauce. This high end and surprisingly gluten free comfort food was devoured in moments!
Entrée: Roasted Beef Bone Marrow
What a special treat! Not many places in the Tri-Cities serve this carnivores delight. Served with toasted baguette, balsamic , garlic confit and an onion jam that I would have (and did) happily spread on everything.
Caution: this entrée may make you want to lick the plank (or table) because the oily bits tend to escape like waterfalls over the hunk of wood it’s served on. I would have preferred this on a plate so as not to miss out on opportunities to sop up all of the marrowy goodness with the baguette. Hopefully you’re dining with a friend that doesn’t judge finger licking! My only bone to pick however is that for the price point there wasn’t more. I’ve had this dish in San Francisco and Seattle and gotten twice as many bones for a similar price. But, being the only place in town that serves it they can kind of set their own price. If you’ve not tried this before, despite the price, I highly recommend it.
Entrée: Seared Sea Scallop
Never had a sea scallop? These were probably the most expensive scallops I think I’ve ever purchased. Conversely they are probably also the best quality scallops I’ve ever eaten in a restaurant as far as being properly cooked, thoughtfully paired and plated in a very appealing manner.
When you or I go to the store scallops that size are usually anywhere from $18-20 a pound and they are usually frozen. These seemed fresh, and restaurants usually pay market price which changes from week to week so even if the restaurant paid up to $15 a pound, each scallop was about an ounce, 16 oz. to a pound that makes each scallop $.94 x 2 is $1.88 plus the other ingredients let’s just guess it’s another $2.50 so…
$4.38 in raw materials
Then there’s labor… for the purpose of this exercise we’re going to assume that it took a total of 5 people who average $15 an hour making labor $1.25 a minute, perfectly seared scallops (which are an absolute art) take about three minutes on each side plus the beautiful plating so I’m going to say it took 10 minutes to make this dish, probably less because we sure didn’t wait very long, so that comes out to
$12.50 in labor
Total $16.88 so a markup to $25 is not unreasonable. Now please realize that these are all approximate and I completely ignored other overhead costs like rent and linens and insurance and taxes etc., etc. This over simplified exercise was mostly to illustrate that there is a lot of work and talent that goes into creating these dishes and that the value is in experiencing the culinary expertise of the chef and his crew.
Overall, the scallops were delicious, artfully prepared and the experience of eating them was particularly enjoyable. They’re the most talked-about item on their Yelp reviews making them an easy choice for somebody who’s not been there before who wants to have a good experience.
Side Dish: Goat Cheese Cauliflower Mash
Silky. Dreamy. Magical. All three words don’t do enough justice to this tasty little side dish. At $5 a bowl, not only is it extremely affordable, but packed full of flavor. If you’re doing your whole meal tapas style, a word to the wise: everyone gets their own bowl. No questions asked.
Upon initial bite, you’re greeted with a pleasant nutty flavor and easily fooled into thinking you are shoving your mouth full of potatoes. The goat cheese is a hidden surprise once the realization of what you are eating has come full circle. I hate cauliflower and this made me feel like it could have a place in my heart after all.
Dessert Flight: Foamed Hot Chocolate
This is possibly the most exciting and delightful flight you will ever experience. It was the chef’s flight which included three foamed hot chocolates: lavender, Mexican hot chocolate, and regular chocolate. The board was artfully decorated with proper toasted
marshmallows and a bowl of marshmallow ice cream.
It fits the bill of holiday nostalgia, with a hint of summer time sadness as you munch on the toasted mallows in-between bites of chocolatey goodness. It is all the elements of “Baby, it’s cold outside” without the perversion. And for those who are diehard fans of lavender flavored things, the lavender hot chocolate hits all the right floral notes. The $7 price tag seemed perfectly reasonable, especially when sharing with a friend. But, deep down we both knew we easily could clear a flight on our own. Like the menu, this dessert is seasonal and will be rotated out eventually so if you’re a fan of all things chocolate, this one’s for you.
Closing thoughts:
What people expect from a restaurant experience is genuine value. Value in the price. Value in the food experience on its own. Value in the memories created during that specific experience. As much as I hate leaving a restaurant hungry after spending a note, the experience and flavors were both memorable and enjoyable.
I tend to be a creature of habit. Once I find something I like, I tend to stick with it. But, a new year is around the corner so I solemnly swear to try something new at the Bradley next time I am in. This may be easy to do knowing their menu is on rotation. One thing is for sure: I will be a repeat customer of the cauliflower puree and bone marrow as long as they are on the menu.
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The Bradley is located at 404 Bradley Blvd., Ste. 106 in Richland.
adventures of yesterday 